Thioglycolate: An Organic Compound Widely Used in Cosmetics and Hair Care Products
Chemical
Properties and Structure
Thioglycolate,
also known as thioglycolic acid or mercaptoacetic acid, is an organic compound
with the chemical formula HOCH2COSH. It has a carboxylic acid functional group
(COOH) attached to a thiol or mercapto group (SH). It exists as a colorless,
clear liquid with a strong odor. It is miscible in water, ethanol and other
polar organic solvents. The molecular formula of it is C2H4O2S and its
molecular weight is 92.12 g/mol.
Due to the presence of carboxylic acid and thiol functional groups, it exhibits
acidic and reducing properties. Its pKa value is around 10.5, making it a
relatively weak acid. The thiol group allows thioglycolate to reduce disulfide
bonds present in proteins, acting as a reducing or cleavage agent. This unique
set of chemical properties are utilized in various cosmetic, pharmaceutical and
industrial applications.
Uses in Cosmetics and Hair Care
The reducing power of it makes it useful for relaxing or straightening curly or
kinky hair. During hair processing, it cleaves the disulfide cross-links
present in the hair protein keratin, allowing the hair shaft to be reshaped. It
works by breaking the cystine bonds that give hair its curl or wave pattern.
Upon drying, the bonds may reconnect in a straighter configuration, resulting
in straight hair.
It is a key ingredient in many permanent wave solutions, which work by
imparting curls or waves to straight hair. The thioglycolate reduces the
disulfide bonds in hair, allowing it to more easily form new shapes around
rollers or rods. When the reduced hair is rinsed and exposed to heat or other
neutralizing treatments, the new disulfide bonds form, locking in the new
texture.
Besides hair processing products, it is commonly used in commercial hair
relaxers and straighteners. It temporarily relaxes tightly coiled curls or
kinks by breaking the strong keratin cross-links in the hair cortex. It
penetrates and swells the hair cuticle as well, allowing better absorption of
other hair care ingredients.
Other Applications
Due to its reducing properties, it finds many applications in photographic
development and paper manufacturing. It is used as a developing agent in black-and-white
photography to reduce silver halides and form metallic silver grains on
photographic paper. This reaction results in the formation of the visible
photograph image during developing.
In paper production, it acts as a softening, debonding or strength reducing
agent. It alters the strong hydrogen bonds between cellulose fibers in the
paper pulp slurry. This makes the fibers more flexible and processable on paper
machines at high speeds. It also improves the brightness and printability of
finished paper products.
In industrial settings, it is employed as a reducing agent in metallurgy,
electroplating and ore processing operations. It reduces dissolved metal
cations to separate and recover metals from complex mixtures. Its reducing
power allows metals like zinc, nickel, copper and precious metals to be
selectively removed from metal-bearing slurries and brought out of solution.
Other niche applications of thioglycolate include as a chemical intermediate in
the synthesis of thioglycollate esters and amides, analytical reagents, rubber
vulcanization accelerators and corrosion inhibitors. Due to its disulfide
cleaving action, it find some use as a depilatory in hair removal formulations
as well.
Safety Profile
While it is widely used, certain safety precautions must be followed in its
handling and use. Prolonged or repeated skin exposure can cause irritation,
dermatitis and blisters. Its vapors are irritating to mucous membranes and
eyes. If ingested, thioglycolate may cause nausea, vomiting and abdominal pain.
Workers must avoid direct contact with eyes, skin and ingestion or inhalation
of its vapors.
It is classified as hazardous and toxic by various regulatory agencies. It is
labeled with warnings about potential harm. Proper handling and storage
conditions like adequate ventilation, protective equipment and sealed
containers are necessary. Disposal of it containing wastes involves degradation
or neutralization methods due to its toxicity. Overall, thioglycolate needs to
be used carefully according to safety guidelines for both human and
environmental protection.
Conclusion
In summary, thioglycolate is an important organic compound with reducing and
acidic properties vital for a wide range of industrial and cosmetic uses. Its
ability to cleave disulfide bonds in keratin proteins forms the basis of its
applications in permanent waving, hair relaxing and straightening formulations.
Other major uses exist in photographic developing, paper manufacturing and
metallurgy due to its disulfide reducing character. While effective in small
amounts, precautions must be followed in the handling, use and disposal of this
potentially hazardous chemical. With proper safety practices, thioglycolate
continues to deliver indispensable benefits across diverse sectors.
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*Note:
1. Source: Coherent Market
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